The Story of Northport, Washington

by: Jamie Paparich – March 11, 2010

Northport, Washington sprang to life during the late 1800s. Surrounded by mines, it became the ideal spot for a smelter. With the arrival of the railroad and a port and shipbuilding center for steamboats, Northport evolved into what was once called “one of the rowdiest mining camps in the West.”

As you drive down from the Canadian border, a clear view of the town and the majestic Columbia River unfolds. The river winds through Northport and its surrounding ranches and farms, offering a breathtaking panorama that showcases the natural beauty of the area, but the land’s beauty once masked a punishing life.

Northport is a community built by families, many of whom carry the last names of the original settlers. These families, like their ancestors, possess a deep-rooted determination to remain on the land they cherish. The town itself shared this spirit of resilience. Despite numerous challenges, from devastating fires to economic downturns, the people of Northport have consistently rebuilt and persevered, holding onto their heritage and community spirit.

By 1892, Northport had evolved from a scrappy camp into a thriving town. Five years later, the LeRoi smelter was producing at full tilt, and the railroad was complete. Main Street bustled with saloons, mercantile shops, hotels, restaurants, and one of the region’s most elaborate train depots. However, the town continued to endure several more fires.

When the smoke dissipated, all that was left in the wake of each extinguished fire were piles of ashes and the resolute, sweat-stained faces of the townspeople, their determination only intensifying with each blaze.

But even grit has its limits. Labor disputes shut down the LeRoi smelter only a few years after it opened. Northport shifted from a thriving town of 1,200 to a near ghost town almost overnight. Jobs vanished, and what the fires had failed to do—empty the town—unemployment did.

As the dust of departing residents settled, a haunting quiet took hold. Main Street became an abandoned dirt road lined with desolate storefronts. The saloons went dark. The once-grand depot stood hollow, slowly decaying. Rows of vacant houses, their gardens overgrown and clotheslines bare, testified to friendships lost. Those who stayed gathered on porches, swapping bittersweet stories of a livelier past.

One survivor stands out: Kuk’s Tavern. Built in 1888, it survived all four major fires. In the early 1900s, townspeople rolled the wooden building uphill on logs to protect it from spring floods—an impressive act of grit and ingenuity. It still stands on that hill today.

On Tuesday nights, Kuk’s hosts Taco Tuesday—two tacos for a dollar, drinks, and conversations among neighbors who have known each other for decades. Many grew up together, as did their parents and their children afterward. Lifelong friendships formed through war, loss, and hardship remain one of Northport’s defining features.

That spirit extends beyond Kuk’s. Through lean years, bad crops, or job scarcity, neighbors quietly helped each other through the tough times.  Nothing needed to be said about how the favor would be repaid, no agreements needed to be signed. The favor would be returned without hesitation if and when the same trouble fell upon the other. Over the years, these friendships extended to the next generation as the children of Northport formed their own lifelong bonds.

On Saturday nights at the Grange Hall, music and dancing provided a brief escape from the grind of everyday life.

As the years passed, many children of Northport left to build lives elsewhere but remained tied to their roots, returning for Labor Day reunions. Men greet each other with firm handshakes and hearty laughter, rekindling the bonds of youth. Women’s joyful shrieks and hugs speak volumes about the memories and secrets they’ve shared.

Yet the town also bears a heavier legacy. Many Northport families lost loved ones too soon to diseases they believe are caused by Teck Cominco, a Canadian smelter in Trail, British Columbia—just seven miles upriver. From the mid-1930s through 1996, Teck released hundreds of tons of heavy-metal slag into the Columbia River each day, and the emissions from their smokestacks drifted downstream, becoming trapped in the Northport River valley. These pollutants accumulated in the environment—and, residents fear, in their bodies.

Despite federal actions and some cleanup efforts, Northport has not lost its determination. Residents continue to urge the EPA and Teck to clean up contaminated soil and install air monitors in and around town.

If you find yourself in Northport on a Tuesday evening, stop by Kuk’s Tavern. Inside, you’ll hear laughter, conversation, and stories of the old days—memories of those who’ve gone but are not forgotten.

Before you leave, take a moment outside. Look at the unbreakable tavern and the unbreakable spirits within. Listen to the crickets and frogs in the warm summer breeze and the rush of the Columbia River as it weaves its way past town. In the fading light, you may glimpse the rowdy mining camp Northport once was—and understand why its people fought so hard to stay.

Visit the Virtual Northport, WA Museum to view the photographic history of Northport.

The History of Northport, WA slideshow:

Northport, WA — A Portrait of a Community With Heart and Grit: